Thailand/Vietnam March 2004

Thailand
Arrived at Bangkok International Airport at 6.15 am.
After a quick customs checkout we were dropped at our favorite hotel "The Grand China Princess" in Chinatown.
After a quick shower, it was a quick trip to the ATM for some cash, and then it was off to the market in Chinatown.
Pat hit the shoes and handbags stalls, while I was only the Packhorse waiting impatiently for my favorite store (I'll keep you guessing a little longer).
Went back to the hotel to drop the first lot of purchases, then caught aTaxi to the "Purenam Market". More shoes and handbags for Pat, then it was my turn.

Pentip Plaza

Yep! "Pentip Plaza, Computer Market”. Hardware and Software paradise.
Purchased three dozen DVD's and a few Computer software and phone cover for daughter, with frequent stops for a Sigah beer and a coconut milk drink for Pat at the local bar.
Back to the hotel for lunch at our favorite restaurant "S&P" which is the equivalent Thai MacDonald's without the burgers for BBQ Pork, Soup and watermelon crush.
A quick sleep to recover from the long flight, then it was time for more shopping. Caught a "Tuk Tuk" to Patpong night market.
More shoes, Handbags, DVD's, Leather belts, T-Shirts and back to the hotel for a well-deserved rest.

Next morning after breakfast. It was time to head to the "Chatuchak weekend Market" for a full day of shopping. Yes. You’ve guessed it right. More shoes and handbags, Jewellery boxes, DVD’s, Thai Silk, clothes for daughter. I bought eight business shirts for $AU6.00 each.
After a quick visit to our favorite Bangkok Pub " Orielly's" it was back to the hotel for the night, before our early flight to Vietnam the next morning.

Vietnam

Arrived at Hanoi Airport at 9.00 am. A gray sterile empty building with four intimidating customs offices in military uniforms at their desks, without a soul in sight, except for the passengers from our plane.

Customs completed. We met with our transfer representative "Miss Than".
Arrived at the "Sunway Hotel" located in central Hanoi. Wonderful hotel with all the luxury expected from any International hotels. Purified drinkable water from the tap, heated mirror in the bathroom, electronic safe, electronic control switches for everything. It would be hard to think that you are in Vietnam.

Dropped the suitcases, jumped in the hotel limo to the ANZ Bank and a couple of hours later, we had a bag full of "Dong" and we were ready to conquer Vietnam in true imperialistic fashion.
A quick snooze and it was time for dinner. Checked the Hanoi map and found a nice French restaurant, walking distance from the hotel.

The 'San Ho" is a beautiful restaurant set in all the splendor of the French era. I had a Chili Crab with rice and Australian Beef for main. Pat had River Shrimp in red sauce. After dinner we explored a small part of Hanoi City on foot before making our way back to the hotel for a good night sleep.

Next Day: Backpacks and walking shoes on. A quick breakfast, we hit the old quarters of Hanoi, dodging motorbikes, Cars, Cyclos, Pedestrians and exhaust fumes. Hopping from one shop to another in search of this bargain that Vietnam is famous for.

Yep! More shoes, handbags and Vietnamese souvenirs. Had lunch at a restaurant next to the "Lake of the Restored Sword” and a visit to the "Green Turtle Temple" next to the lake.
Got back to the hotel at 5.00 pm exhausted and thirsty for a beer and off load the shopping. Quick shower, then to the hotel bar for a couple of drinks and listen to the hotel Jazz Band.
Found another marvelous restaurant " Indochine" the restaurant has established a reputation for its fine Vietnamese cuisine, Set in a French villa. Guests have the option of indoor or outdoor dining. Staffs are attired in traditional Vietnamese style, as are the musicians who play classical Vietnamese (Beautiful Vietnamese girls.)

Halong Bay

Miss Than picked us up at 8.00 am and after a few stops along the way for some photos of farmers working in the rice paddies, we stopped at the "Hong Ngoc Humanity Center".
The 'Hong Ngoc Humanity Center" was established to provide an income for Children affected with birth defects due to "Agent Orange " used during the American War.

It is required by law imposed by the Vietnamese Government that all coaches and cars carrying tourists to stop there on their way to Halong Bay. Apparently we are all responsible for everything that happened in Vietnam more than 30 years ago. Handicrafts are over priced as expected and we felt pressured to buy something as we had one person following us at all time. After spending more than $US90 on one small doily, and a small embroidery print, we made our way to Halong Bay.
Halong Bay is quite beautiful for the exception of pollution. The Bay is littered with all sort of rubbish, including plastic bags and bottles.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Next Day: Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Caught a taxi to the Mausoleum, which is approx half an hour from the hotel.
In true communist style we formed a neat line with the rest of the visitors making our way towards a gray stone monument, flanked by National Guards with machine guns.
The following rules apply when visiting the mausoleum.
1. No Cameras
2. Remove hats from head
3. Remove hands from pocket
4. My Favorite. Do not ask the guard. Is he really dead?

Marble floor with vinyl red carpet, we made our way to the main chamber where the Great Ho Chi Minh is in a glass cabinet with 4 guards at each corner as though someone would steal it. Macabre would be the word to describe the all thing. We exited from another stair, which led us to the Presidential Palace and another 5000 dong for tourists, which also included an English-speaking guide.

The guide explained that “Uncle Ho” lived and worked from the Presidential Palace and in 1954 decided that it was too opulent for him and moves to the “House on Stilts” and is a symbol of his simplicity and gentleness. After 2 Hours of Communist indoctrination, we thanked our guide and proceeded toward the "One Pillar Pagoda" also in the same compound. So, we did a 'Chevy Chase" and just stood there and stared at it for a couple of minutes.

Then it was the must visit " Ho Chi Minh Museum" and again another 5000 Dong with a tour guide. Some of the exhibits were relevant to Uncle Ho's life struggle but also a few meaningless props, mainly having a stab at the French and American Imperialists. Scores of new police and military recruits going through the museum, as it is part of their training.By the time we finished, we were full pledge communist converts and having enough culture for one day, we decided that it was time to head back to the hotel.

Perfumed Pagoda

Picked up by our tour guide, who was probably the only Vietnamese that we've met with a sense of humor.
Drove approx 2 Hrs and after a few bribes at police check points, we arrived at "My Duc". Then we took a small steel boat rowed by women. Beautiful scenery but again highly polluted river. By the time we reached the foot of the mountain our arses were numb from the steel bench of the boat and from there a 2 Hrs walk up to the main pagoda.

Perfumed it was not... Great numbers of Buddhist pilgrims and smoke from burning " Ghost Money" made it difficult to climb the steep hills that led to the pagodas.
Took a few photos and joked with our tour guide during the climb and after a cup of tea, it was time for lunch.

Well...! Little make-shift restaurants with dogs and all sort of creatures hanging from hooks in very unsanitary conditions waiting for hungry pilgrims and tourists alike. We politely told our guide that we would prefer to have steamed rice and watercress for lunch. More photos after lunch and it was time to head back to the small canoe for another arse numbing ride back to the car.

History Museum

Imposing French architecture, the Museum was quite pleasant. Exhibits include artifacts from Vietnam's turbulent history including Neolithic periods, proto- Vietnamese civilizations, various Vietnamese dynasties to the struggle against the French and history of the Communist Party.
Cameras & Video Cameras are not allowed in the Museum but if you pay an extra 5000 Dong, you will be able to take pictures. Work this one out!
Bought a T-Shirt and a few postcards and some traditional scarf’s from the shop and took some pictures of snakes soaked in rice wine. Yep. I'll have no problem sneaking this one through the Australian customs.
After 2 Hrs of history, we decide that it was time for some more shopping. More shoes and handbags and souvenirs after which we went back to the hotel for lunch and a few drinks and stayed at the hotel watching the discovery Channel until the next day.

Temple Of Literature

Next Day: Got out of bed at 8.30, had breakfast and did some more shopping in the Old Quarter. Took a taxi to Koto Restaurant located next to the Temple of Literature.
The Koto Restaurant was set up by a Vietnamese Australian in order to help the street kids of Hanoi with a trade in the hospitality industry. Lunch and service was superb. The best fried rice I ever tasted...If anyone intends to visit Hanoi. “Koto is a must...”

The Temple of literature is 2 Km west of Hoan Kiem Lake" and is a pleasant retreat from the streets of Hanoi. The Temple is dedicated to '"Fu Manchu".
The Temple constitutes of traditional Vietnamese architecture. Performances of traditional music and dance from 1.30 to 4.30 pm and admission is FREE...

Water Puppets

Our Last Night: The water puppets show was probably the highlight of the trip.
The ancient art form of water puppetry. It originated with rice farmers who spent much of their time in flooded fields and either saw the potential of the water surface as a dynamic stage. The water look dirty, apparently by design to conceal the mechanisms that operate the puppets
The Water Puppets is a must if you are visiting Vietnam.

Our Conclusion on Vietnam

Hanoi is a beautiful city with impressive architecture but polluted city with almost sadness to it. The Vietnamese population still needs to understand the meaning of Tourism but we must keep in mind that Vietnam as a destination was only open to tourism a few years ago and they still have a long way to go.
Vietnamese can be rude on occasions and what I mean by this, is if you are in someone's way on the footpath, they will simply push you aside. The population looks sad and do not smile often. I can only assume that four wars and a communist regime will do this to you.
Expect loud speakers at 7.00 am spreading communist propaganda just outside of your hotel room every day for half an hour
When shopping. The first quote is always US Dollars and you find yourself repeating the same sentence every time " No. Not US$, how much in Dong?". Keep in mind that only a small percentage of the population can speak the English language for the exception of hotels and tours staff.
There are four Million people in Hanoi and 2 Million motor bikes which mean pulmonary diseases is common and the Vietnamese are very aware of this by wearing face masks almost everywhere and I am yet to meet a Vietnamese without a constant cough.
There is no doubt that the Vietnamese Government will blame pollution on tourism in the near future.
The French and Americans are still regarded as the Imperialist but they don't mind the dollar. “Ironic you would think”
The Scenery in Vietnam is beautiful if you could only over look the misery of the population and pollution.
Would not advise anyone to eat from street vendors... No wonder why some of the new diseases start in those countries.
Overall, Vietnam was pleasant and would have liked to see more and possibly visit the south of the country on our next visit.
Vietnam is suited for backpackers, Singles, and couples with children above 12 YO.
We will look at Vietnam as a very interesting travel experience.

Some more Photos:

Natural History Museum - Hanoi
Pat on the boat - Halong Bay
View from our hotel room - Hanoi
Temple Offerings - Old Quarters Hanoi
Pentip Plaza Computer Centre -Bangkok
Police Motorbike - Hanoi
Old Citroen - Hanoi
French Architecture - Hanoi
Lacquerware Shop - Hanoi
Spice - Thailand
Spice at China Town - Thailand
Pigs on the way to Halong Bay - Hanoi
More Pigs - Hanoi
Boats - Halong Bay
Pat on the Boat - Halong Bay
Apocalypse Now Bar - Hanoi
Tut House - Hanoi

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